AGE AND AGES RETURNING AT INTERVALS

Marine whales, penguins, elephants and wolves together with beautiful birds reproduce themselves and develop in a very safe environment. The Peninsula Valdes and Punta Tombo are two examples of how the inhabitants of Chubut work hard in order to preserve the sea fauna. The waters of the Golfo San José are calm when  there is no wind, they are the ideal stage to locate the animals. The air is so pure and transparent that one can distinguish the complete drawing of the Golfo with its walls of pale yellow color falling and peeping on an emerald sea, without wrinkles, inmobile, quiet. In the loveliness of this inmense anphitheatre, the most amazing show is at sight: the right (franca) whale. This huge sea animal which weights almost 60 tons, comes to these coasts to reproduce itself. After nine or ten months of gestation it gives birth to one breed (whale calf) which feed of its mother's milk throughout a year. The right (franca) whale feeds on different zooplanctons species, among them, the krill, that the whale filters through its whale bone. After many years of persecution it is believed that there are only 2,000 of this kind most hunted by man. Fortunately, there are some men, very few, really, who spring after spring, achieve vulnerable coyness of the whales and live together with them during long weeks, that often turned into months. There are also people who work for the development of tourism, giving tourists the opportunity to be in direct contact with the whales. In fact, one feels a stranger in a territory belonging to the whales.

The entrance to the Península Valdés is 80 km. away to the North of Puerto Madryn. It is situated in Route 2. After walking through a narrow way you get to a building which is the entrance to Golfo San Jorge  and Isla de los Pájaros Reserve, a two hectares natural reserve. When the tide lowers you can get there on foot. In the past, this place was the cradle of many different species of birds like seagulls, cormorants, herones, oystercatchers, royal herons, ducks, etc. Unfortunately, nowadays that variety has been diminished due to the alteration in the natural balance caused by the presence of the great number of tourists. Although the situation is being changed by a group of people who decided to protect this place and take care of the seven species that can still be found there. As the presence of tourists is still a common denominator of this region the government has built viewpoints where you can appreciate the wonders of nature using the big binoculars found there in order not to disturb the privacy of its feathered inhabitants.

In Puerto Pirámides you will find a colony of seals and sea lions. More than a thousand of them come during the reproduction season and stay  in terraces which can be found there. The sea lions and the sea bears have  ears and they walk on the land helped by their back flippers. In November and December the males are the first to arrive to the colony, they are five times bigger than the females. As soon as they arrive they start defending their territory against the other males. When they are on guard these animals start to roar and fight at the same time they try to get as many females as possible for their harems. In January the calves, which have been conceived during the previous summer, are born. They have dark skin and enjoy playing in the water at the same time their mothers look after them.

Driving along route 2 you will be able to see lot of farms where flocks of sheep can be appreciated as well as guanacos, ñandúes, tinamúes and maras. The tinamúes are birds which have a brown plumage, they are very similar to the roadrunners. In South America there are more than 50 species of tinamúes and a great number of them live in Península Valdés. Tinamúes measure 60 cm. They have a whistle similar to a flute sound. It is not common to see them flying. Nowadays, laws protect them from hunters as tinamúes meat has a great demand. On both sides of the route, some funny animals can be seen. They are the maras, a Patagonic version of the hare. Maras have long ears, long hind legs which allow them to run and hide very quickly in the bushes. An adult mara measures 60 cm. 

Caleta Valdés is situated 34 km to the North of Punta Delgada. It is a narrowing inlet plenty of sea elephants. An adult male is 6 meters length, weights 3 tons and has a big snout which growls  during the mating season. According to statistics, every year between 4,000 and 5,000 sea elephants are expected to arrive.

Penguins can be found in Punta Tombo and Cabo Dos Bahías, both places are to the South of Puerto Madryn. Punta Tombo at the distance of 209 km from Puerto Madryn while Cabo Dos Bahías 185 km. Those animals are used to walking freely among the tourists. They chirp very loudly specially in the afternoons. Their tweet has a sound similar to a bray.

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